Bungalow keeps shining in the valley
Business profile
The deck is one of the rare additions to the Bungalow, which looks much as it did upon erection in 1934. (R. R. Branstrom | Daily Press)
A happy crowd dines and drinks at the Bungalow Tavern on 17th Road in Gladstone. (Courtesy of Bob Edwards)
This advertisement ran in the Daily Press in September 1934, a few months after the Bungalow first opened. (Daily Press file)
The old, curved wooden door of the Bungalow Tavern was outfitted with a "speakeasy peephole" by the Wagners, who owned the bar from 2013 to 2016. (R. R. Branstrom | Daily Press)
The 80th anniversary of the repealing of Prohibition — which was notable for places like Gladstone's "Moonshine Valley" — was celebrated at the Bungalow during Bonnie and Tiny Wagner's ownership. (Daily Press file)
A pool table, dartboard, televisions and plenty of food and drink are available to patrons of the Bungalow Tavern in Gladstone. (Courtesy of Bob Edwards)
A bustling day at the Bungalow Tavern, found at the bottom of the bluff at 403 N. 17th St. in Gladstone. (Courtesy of Bob Edwards)
The deck is one of the rare additions to the Bungalow, which looks much as it did upon erection in 1934. (R. R. Branstrom | Daily Press)
A happy crowd dines and drinks at the Bungalow Tavern on 17th Road in Gladstone. (Courtesy of Bob Edwards)
This advertisement ran in the Daily Press in September 1934, a few months after the Bungalow first opened. (Daily Press file)
The old, curved wooden door of the Bungalow Tavern was outfitted with a "speakeasy peephole" by the Wagners, who owned the bar from 2013 to 2016. (R. R. Branstrom | Daily Press)
The 80th anniversary of the repealing of Prohibition — which was notable for places like Gladstone's "Moonshine Valley" — was celebrated at the Bungalow during Bonnie and Tiny Wagner's ownership. (Daily Press file)
A pool table, dartboard, televisions and plenty of food and drink are available to patrons of the Bungalow Tavern in Gladstone. (Courtesy of Bob Edwards)
A bustling day at the Bungalow Tavern, found at the bottom of the bluff at 403 N. 17th St. in Gladstone. (Courtesy of Bob Edwards)
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GLADSTONE -- A destination beloved by generations has entered a new era. The current owners of the Bungalow Tavern reopened the bar and restaurant this spring — and one of them has 27 years of experience working at the establishment.
Bob and Tammi Edwards, the latter of whom is a Gladstone native, moved to town a few years ago after living in the Appleton / Kaukauna area of Wisconsin for some time. The Bungalow had been closed for about a year before they scooped it up.
The restaurant’s history dates back close to a century. In 1934, the building at 403 N. 17th St. in Gladstone - in a neighborhood referred to as “Moonshine Valley” -- was erected “specifically for use as a beer tavern.” Contractors included Ole Peterson for concrete work, Phil Peterson for masonry and J.A. Strom for carpentry.
The establishment, owned by Camiel VerHamme, was “laid out and fitted in every modern manner,” including a new Simplex Wurlitzer jukebox. “In the tavern are one large room fitted with booths and tables, and three small rooms which will be available for private parties,” read an article in the Daily Press on the opening day of June 16, 1934. “Interior walls and ceilings are of wood paneling and the place presents an exceptionally inviting and attractive appearance.”
The Bungalow was only the second establishment in Delta County to secure a liquor license, after the Dells Supper Club, which opened the year prior -- the same year Prohibition ended.
Some say that construction of the tavern began in anticipation of the repeal of Prohibition. The Bungalow is in the heart of a neighborhood referred to as “Moonshine Valley,” part of Gladstone’s Buckeye Addition.
Recounting a story from someone who grew up in the area during Prohibition: “The men would go to work and the women would make the moonshine -- thus the nickname ‘Moonshine Valley,'” said Bonnie Wagner, who said she was told the story by Camiel’s daughter, Mickey. “She also said that when the revenuers came, they arrested all the men for moonshining, not thinking that the women were the ones actually doing it!”
In 1949, Camiel sold the Bungalow to his two children and their spouses: daughter Mary “Mickey” (VerHamme) and Fritz Esler and son Eugene and Bernadette (Buckland) VerHamme. Gene and Bernadette sold their share to the Eslers a couple years later.
Mickey and Fritz operated the place together for 20 years; after Fritz died in ’69, Mickey ran it for five more years.
“They sold penny candy, and dime potato chips. Old Dutch -- still my favorite, by the way!” said Bruce Coppock, who remembers growing up “just a few houses down from Mickey and Fritz.”
Bill and Lila Hendon bought the business in 1974 and grew the eatery’s reputation.
Lunch and dinner were always focal points of a Bungalow experience, from meals of chicken or ham and mashed potatoes in Camiel’s day to Bill’s barbecued ribs and the wildly popular fish fry.
Beginning around 1967, Elma and Donna Soderman began offering fish fries at the Bungalow -- not as employees, but more as caterers, a 1994 article by Brian Rowell explained. Between 200 and 300 meals could be served on a given Friday, Donna said at the time.
The Hendons operated the Bungalow for 25 years, selling it to Shelly Williams in 1999 to travel. Williams operated it with her sister Debra.
Upon returning, the Hendons bought the business back in 2006 and began major renovations. The bar-restaurant was closed for six months as things were gutted and updated in a way that was still in character with the place. It reopened as the “Bungalow Depot” with 100 feet of track for a model train suspended from the ceiling at this time.
Being very near railroad tracks, first of the Soo Line and then Canadian National, the Bungalow has always maintained somewhat of a train theme.
By 2008, the Bungalow was for sale again, but appears to have remained in the Hendons’ hands until 2013.
In 2012, Bonnie and Gerald “Tiny” Wagner of Cornell began organizing to take over the Bungalow Depot. They purchased in 2013 and operated the place until about 2016.
Bonnie said the Wagners installed the “speakeasy peephole” in the large, curved wooden front door. In December 2013, they held a 1930s-themed party at the Bungalow to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the ratification of the 21st amendment.
In 2015, Brenda Soper was the registered agent for the corporation to do business at 403 N. 17th St. -- B & B Plus 6 G’s, Inc., under the name Bungalow Depot. Soper’s Bay Area Enterprises kept the Bunaglow until selling it to Katelyn Kobasic in 2018.
Unfortunately for Kobasic, who had been excited with “big plans” for the place, she had to close it after COVID and health problems.
In September 2020, the Bungalow was once again for sale.
Travis Godfrey was responsible for reopening the Gladstone bar in 2022. Godfrey and his staff sold burgers, cheesesteaks, fried perch and more.
When it closed, there were two people who decided they didn’t want to see the Bungalow dark. Bob and Tammi purchased the bar and restaurant from Godfrey, and after some painting and minor upkeep, they reopened to the public.
The Bungalow is continuing to be a hotspot for Friday fish fries.
“On our Friday fish fry menu, we have yellow lake perch. We’re one of the few restaurants that offers true yellow lake perch as opposed to just the regular perch. There’s a significant difference,” Bob said.
Patrons who enjoyed coming to the Bungalow a couple decades and several owners ago for a fish fry are in luck:
“We use the recipe that was popular and famous. Tammi had that in her memory bank,” said Bob. “And so far, everybody has said, ‘don’t change your batter, don’t change your coleslaw, don’t change your beans. Keep it going.'”
The dinner rolls served with the fish fry are homemade by local baker Tina Lindahl.
Walleye and baked potato are probably going to be added soon as options on fish fry nights.
Right now, people ordering sandwiches get the option of either french fries or tater tots.
A menu item that Bob said has been popular is the “loaded totchos” -- tater tots piled with taco fixings. On Sundays, there is a special on wings.
Much of the menu was drawn from what Godfrey had been serving, Bob shared. People liked the cheesesteaks and burgers and homemade sauces, so the Edwardses and their team are keeping those items going.
“We’ve been trying to keep our standards high as far as the food goes,” said Bob, noting that the quality comes through even with something as simple as homemade tartar sauce.
Proud of and grateful for the whole team at the Bungalow, Manager Sheila Walker remarked, “We have the best crew.”
The Bungalow is open seven days a week, from noon until about midnight (though closing time is flexible). The kitchen is open from noon to 9 p.m.
For a brief period earlier this year, the Bungalow kept the menu limited on Sundays and Mondays, and tried just offering things like sloppy joes and pizza, but the demand for other items persisted, so now the full menu is available every day.
A deck off the back of the building offers patrons a little bit of outdoor space where they can take their beverages and smoke. Bob said he hopes to expand the outdoor area, possibly next year.
A space for live music at the rear of the Bungalow offers a world of possibilities. A couple events have utilized it so far -- a grand opening party on Sept. 12 featured a performance by Tom Edberg followed by karaoke -- and Bob said there will be more live music to come.
Perhaps the best thing about the Bungalow, though, is the environment. Walker said that working at the Bungalow has been one of the best things she’s done, and Bob said that a drama-free atmosphere is always the goal.
“If somebody comes in a stranger, they’re leaving a friend,” Bob said.